Turtles need a wide, sandy beach with ample portions not touched by high tide; Playa Grande fills these requirements admirably. It's long, unpopulated, with few human footprints to disturb the solitude. A few homes and one or two small hotels have sprung up along the northern part, but nothing like the construction underway on other west coast beaches. As a part of Tamarindo Refuge, the area will always be somewhat restricted in tourist development, even though the natural beauty and wildness of the area is bound to attract more people in the future.

I looked at a small development (about a half-dozen luxury homes) on beachfront lots which are supposedly "grandfather," or titled before restrictions were placed on the beach. One place was for sale, a large, tastefully constructed home with a neatly manicured lawn ending at a beach wall marking the 50-meter boundary. Priced at $435,000, it would seem high for Costa Rica, yet the gorgeous location made it worth every dollar. The owner half- apologized for the home's isolation and lack of anything to do, adding, "The hope of this little community is that things won't change. What we offer here is location, nothing else." He indicated the broad expanse of beach visible through a stand of coconut trees, and said, "The whole idea here is to fit into the ecology without disturbing things, particularly not the nesting turtles and their life cycle." The house's window frames were made of wood instead of the more practical aluminum, "because metal frames reflect moonlight and confuse the hatchling Leatherbacks. We don't allow any lights from our homes to escape at night. For bright lights and nightlife you have to go to Tamarino

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